Modern then, timeless today
The story of a legendary fragrance
Green Water Vintage from 1993
Vincent Roubert
Green Water Vintage from 1947
In 2016, the brand was acquired by the Panouage Group, with the aim of continuing the vision of the designer Jacques Fath in a contemporary way. In collaboration with renowned perfumers, the classic compositions were carefully reworked and at the same time complemented by new creations.
For the reinterpretation of GREEN WATER, the Panouage Group chose the perfumer Cécile Zarokian. The objective was to preserve the original identity of the fragrance as authentically as possible, in particular the characteristic high Neroli concentration as well as the distinctive freshness of Mint.
I was very flattered when Jacques Fath Parfums asked me to collaborate on this project, yet also respectful, as Green Water is an iconic perfume. In the 1950s, it was a great success, and I clearly remember analysing it during my studies at ISIPCA.
In close collaboration with Jacques Fath Parfums and the Osmothèque in Versailles, the renowned perfume archive, we had the opportunity to smell and study the original formulation from 1946. Jean Kerléo, founder of the Osmothèque, shared valuable insights into the history and composition of the fragrance.
In order to preserve its unmistakable freshness, I worked with high amounts of Neroli and other key raw materials, to come as close as possible to the original version.
– Cécile Zarokian
While the historical vintage formulation was significantly more complex in structure (source: Fragrantica), the modern interpretation is characterised by a deliberately focused composition.
Vintage composition
Top notes: Lime, green notes, Petitgrain, Basil, Lemon, Bergamot, Carrot, Mandarin, Caraway
Heart notes: Ginger, Jasmine, Lily of the Valley
Base notes: Oakmoss, Musk, Amber
Modern interpretation
Top notes: Neroli, Bergamot, Mandarin
Heart notes: Mint, Basil, Tarragon
Base notes: Vetiver, Oakmoss, Ambergris
Historical photographs and archival material related to GREEN WATER
GREEN WATER is characterised by a balanced harmony of citrus, green and aromatic notes. The fragrance appears clear and refreshing, while remaining lively and precisely composed. From the very first impression, the pronounced presence of Neroli combines citrus, floral and gently sweet facets. In combination with Bergamot and Mandarin, this creates an immediate freshness with a bright, open radiance.
As the fragrance unfolds, the interplay of Mint and Basil becomes more prominent and lends the composition an aromatic clarity. In the drydown, the scent develops into a calmer and more sensual expression, with Ambergris rounding out the structure and providing a lasting presence.
A comparison with historical versions shows that earlier interpretations of GREEN WATER were noticeably more herbal and overall heavier in character. The modern interpretation opens with greater freshness and transparency, without losing sight of the characteristic raw materials.
Mint and Neroli shape both versions in their fundamental structure. In the contemporary reinterpretation, however, these raw materials are given a greater sense of lightness and modernity, while the historical version appears spicier and denser.
With this careful reinterpretation, a convincing connection has been created between the character of the historical composition and today’s expectations of contemporary perfumery. GREEN WATER is regarded as an early pioneer of citrus driven fragrance expressions and continues to demonstrate how demanding clarity and freshness can be realised within a composition.
The fragrance preserves its original idea without appearing nostalgic, and asserts itself as a timeless composition with a clear signature within the fragrance history of JACQUES FATH.